Sunday, January 15, 2017

Wing Collar Suede Jacket

Since the Indian Inspired Brocade Jacket was a bust, I tried another jacket on Saturday.



This one is made of faux suede, which does not stretch. See? I'm learning from my mistakes. I remembered that through this one and made damn sure this one would fit. As part of the Holy Hardcore Handmade Holiday Hootenanny, I made my dad a faux suede jacket and since I'm daddy's girl, I thought I'd make one for me. This one is more girly, with princess seams.

This is McCall's pattern M5668, designed by Nancy Zieman (which reminds me, I need to take a road trip up to Beaver Dam to visit her digs). Nancy decided that only the sleeves should be lined, and I respectfully disagreed, so I hacked this one to line the full thing. I assembled the outer jacket up to the point where the sleeves would be put in and stopped to address the lining.

To line it, I cut lining pieces of the back, back sides and front sides. The pattern had facing pieces that bring the suede into the inside to cover the front and top part of the back. I modified my back lining piece to cut it off where the back facing started.

I sewed the back sides to the back, and then the front sides to the back sides. Then, I put the lining right sides together with the outer and stitched the front sides of the lining to the front facing, and the top back of the lining to the back facing.


Next, I sewed the outer sleeves and liner sleeves. I attached the liner sleeves to the liner arm holes first. Then, I did the same for the outer sleeves, attaching them to the outer arm holes. Then, I turned the jacket right side out, stuffed the liner sleeves into the outer sleeves and hemmed them.

Aaaand I don't like the fit. The sleeves are too short, and I don't like that. Plus, I put the liner sleeves in wrong. It was after midnight and I lined them up with a side seam and that wasn't right, which I only realized after I was setting the outer sleeves. So they're kinda twisty in there.

I didn't finish this one, it'll go on the rack and maybe I'll finish it later...after I realized the sleeves were messed up, I didn't feel like pulling serged stitches so I went to bed!