Tuesday, December 29, 2015

Bifold Manly Wallet

This is an easy project for anyone who likes a simple bifold wallet.





Materials

Card pockets (6): 2.5" x 4"
Pocket Back (2): 4.25" x 4"
Inner Liner (1): 4" x 10"
Outer Liner (1): 4" x 10"
Bill Pocket (2): 4" x 10"

1/4" Double Fold Bias Tape

Create Card Pockets

For each of the card pockets, draw a 1/2" line to create the top hem (on the 2.5" side). Fold over and press with an iron. Topstitch across to secure.

On the "wrong side" of each,  draw a line 1/4" above the bottom edge, which will serve as a guide for attaching to the pocket back. 

Card Pocket Assembly

Each assembly will have 3 horizontal card slots. Take a pocket back piece and align one of the card pockets at 3/4" from the top. Stitch along the 1/4" bottom edge line from previous step to attach the card pocket to the back piece. 

For the next two pockets, measure 1/2" below the previous pocket's top edge and secure to the backing along the 1/4" bottom edge line.

In the picture below (not to scale), the black lines are the pocket back, green is the card pocket. Red is where to sew.

When finished you should have two assemblies.

Grab your 1/4" bias tape and cut 4 lengths that will cover each side of the card assembly on the vertical edge to hide the raw edges of the pockets.

I find that unfolding the back of the bias tape and pressing makes this easier, so you have the 1/4" fold on the front of the card assembly and 1/2" in the back - this makes sure you catch the back of the bias tape when you sew.

Topstitch the bias tape to the card assembly edges. When finished you should have two card assembly pieces like this:

Go ahead and clip off the excess bias tape. 

Attach Card Assembly to Inner Lining

Next, take both card assembly pieces and your inner lining. Place them on the right side of the inner lining, 1/2" from each edge. Pin and fold it to make sure this folds correctly and has enough room for expansion. You should have about 1/2" or 1/4" space in between the two card assembly pieces.

Attach the card assembly to the inner lining by sewing along the top, one side (the side that would be the "outside"), and along the bottom. I like to leave the inner side open so that creates a stash pocket behind the cards.

Create Bill Pocket

Take your bill pocket pieces and place them right sides together. Sew along the sides and bottom, leaving a gap in the bottom that will be used to turn the wallet out later. Sew along the blue line.

Sew Liner and Outer Together

Place your liner (with card slots) right sides together with the outer piece. Make sure you identify the "top" based on the way the card pockets are facing. 

Leaving the top open, sew at 1/4" along the side, bottom and up the other side. 

Clip out the corner excess. 

Attach to the Bill Pocket

Stuff the liner/outer piece into the bill pocket piece, right sides together. Stitch at 1/4" around the top. 

Reach through the gap in the bill pocket piece to pull everything through and turn it out. Close the gap in the bill pocket by folding the seams in and topstitching over at 1/8".

Press with an iron and make sure to poke out the corners so they're nice and neat. Push the bill pocket liner inside and press along the top seam to get a nice finish.